LOL!!! :D Yes, we will be learning entrelac! The pattern that Peggy found online is one of the patterns available to learn. Don't be intimidated. It really is much easier than it appears!!! The best thing to bring with you in addition to the supplies you will need (one pair of size 10 knitting needles and two colors of yarn for your learning project) is a bucket-load of patience!!! :D I look forward to sharing with all of you!
If you are curious as to which pattern I learned to entrelac, here is the link!:
http://www.allisonknits.com/entrelacscarf.pdf
See you all there!!!
Kat
About the group:
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Entrelac!
Kat is going to teach us a new stitch! Entrelac
It is realy cool. If you have seen Melinda or Kat working on it you will remember it is little squares set on the diagnal and they are puffy. Melinda did a sweater in entrelac and let us display it at the library and Kat has been working on a blanket. Kat has not given me a pattern. The one listed below is just so you will get the idea. She will bring a pattern for us to the December meeting. She said you would need size 10 knitting needles and 2 colors of woorsted weight yarn. See you all the 2nd Thursday of December.
Design by Lisa Shroyer
The Basic Entrelac Scarf
FINISHED SIZE:
10" wide and 69" long.
YARN:
Noro Kochoran (50% wool, 30% angora, 20%
silk; 175 yd [160 m]/100 g): #53 orange/
green/turquoise, 3 skeins. Yarn distributed by
Knitting Fever.
NEEDLES:
Size 9 (5.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
NOTIONS:
Tapestry needle.
GAUGE:
15 sts and 19 rows = 4" in St st. Gauge is not
critical for this project.
SKILL LEVEL:
Intermediate.
If you're new to entrelac and need a basic pattern to get started, you're in luck! I just
started an easy scarf and thought it would make a great beginner entrelac project. I
made up the instructions based on Eunny Jang's Beyond the Basics article on entrelac,
so if you have that article, following the pattern will be a good exercise.
You'll see I haven't finished the scarf, but it's such a quick knit I should be able to
complete it before the weather changes here in the Northeast. Enjoy!
Lisa Shroyer
Entrelac Scarf
Notes
• This scarf is a great first entrelac project. You can
use any chunky-weight yarn, or even go down to a
worsted weight (for a narrower version).
• In this project, you will pick up stitches on both the
right and wrong sides. You may need to practice picking
up and purling stitches if you’re not used to this
method.
• When picking up stitches, use a half stitch or one full
stitch selvedge. This means pick up your stitches
from the bar in the middle of the first stitch along the
selvedge, or in the trough between the first and second
stitches along the selvedge. Keeping your pickup
locations consistent throughout the pick-up and
throughout the project will ensure a neat look.
BEGINNING SCARF:
Base Triangles:
Use the knitted method (see Glossary)
to CO 24 sts. You want a loose CO for
the beginning of the base triangles.
Row 1: (RS) K2, turn work around, leaving
rem sts unworked.
Row 2: (WS) P2, turn work around.
Row 3: (RS) K3, turn work around.
Row 4: (WS) P3, turn work around.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 8: P5, turn.
Row 9: K6, turn.
Row 10: P6, turn.
Row 11: K7, turn.
Row 12: P7, turn.
Row 13: K8, do not turn—first base triangle
completed.
With RS still facing and 8 sts on right
needle, rep Row 1 across next 2 sts on
left needle. Work Rows 2-13—second
base triangle completed. With RS still
facing and 16 sts on right needle, work Row 1 across
next 2 sts on left needle. Work Rows 2-13 once
more—third base triangle completed; all 24 sts have
been worked.
Tier 1: (blocks with side triangles)
Turn work so WS is facing. You will start this tier with a
triangle, then work 2 full right-slanting blocks, then end
with another side triangle. When you work the p2tog’s
on WS rows, you will be joining the side triangle with
the sts of the base triangle below it.
Row 1: (WS) P2, turn.
Row 2: (RS) K1, M1 (see Glossary), k1, turn.
Row 3: (WS) P2, p2tog, turn.
Row 4: (RS) K2, M1, k1, turn.
Row 5: P3, p2tog, turn.
Row 6: K3, M1, k1, turn.
Row 7: P4, p2tog, turn.
Row 8: K4, M1, k1, turn.
Row 9: P5, p2tog, turn.
Row 10: K5, M1, k1, turn.
Row 11: P6, p2tog, turn.
Row 12: K6, M1, k1, turn.
Row 13: P7, p2tog, do not turn—first side triangle completed;
8 sts on right needle.
With WS still facing, look at the base triangle now
attached to the completed side triangle. The right-hand
side of the base triangle is attached to the side triangle,
while the left-hand side of the base triangle is free. You
will now pick up sts along this left-hand edge of the
base triangle. With WS still facing, starting at the tip
of the base triangle and working down to the CO edge,
evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the selvedge of the
base triangle (see Notes)—16 sts total on right needle
and 16 sts on left needle. In the block you’re about to
work, you will join the new picked-up sts with the sts
of the middle base triangle with p2tog’s, just as you
joined the side triangle to the first base triangle. Turn
work so RS is facing.
Odd Rows 1-15: (RS) K8, turn.
Even Rows 2-14: (WS) P7, p2tog, turn.
Row 16: (WS) P7, p2tog, do not turn—first block completed;
16 sts on right needle, 8 sts of last base triangle
on left needle.
With WS still facing, look at the middle base triangle.
The first block is joined to the right-hand edge of the
base triangle, while the left-hand edge of the base
triangle is free. With WS still facing, starting at the tip
of the base triangle and working down to the CO edge,
evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the selvedge of the
base triangle—24 sts total on right needle and 8 sts on
left needle. Turn work so RS is facing and work Rows
1-16 as for first block—second block completed; 24 sts
on right needle, no sts on left needle. It may look like
this tier is complete, but you still need to work a second
side triangle. With WS still facing, look at the last base
triangle on the left-hand side. The second block is
joined to its right-hand edge, while the left-hand edge
of the base triangle is free. With WS still facing, starting
at the tip of the base triangle and working down to
the CO edge, evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the
selvedge of the base triangle—32 sts now on right
needle. Turn work so RS is facing.
Row 1: (RS) K8, turn.
Row 2: (WS) P6, p2tog, turn.
Row 3: (RS) K7, turn.
Row 4: (WS) P5, p2tog, turn.
Row 5: K6, turn.
Row 6: P4, p2tog, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 8: P3, p2tog, turn.
Row 9: K4, turn.
Row 10: P2, p2tog, turn.
Row 11: K3, turn.
Row 12: P1, p2tog, turn.
Row 13: K2, turn.
Row 14: P2tog, turn so RS is facing, slip 1 st from left
needle to right needle—second side triangle completed;
25 sts total on needles.
Tier 2: (all blocks, no side triangles)
Tier 1 created right-slanting blocks; Tier 2 will create
left-slanting blocks (when viewed from the RS). With
RS still facing, look at the side triangle just completed.
Its left-hand edge is free. You will now pick up and knit
sts along this selvedge. With RS still facing and 1 st on
right needle, starting at tip of side triangle and working
downwards, pick up and knit 7 sts along the selvedge of
the side triangle—8 sts total on right needle (including
1 st rem from side triangle). Turn so WS is facing.
Odd Rows 1-15: (WS) P8, turn.
Even Rows 2-14: (RS) K7, ssk (see Glossary), turn.
Row 16: (RS) K7, ssk, do not turn—first block completed;
8 sts on right needle, 16 sts on left needle.
**With RS still facing, look at the block below your
needle tips, worked on Tier 1. The block you just
completed is joined to the top of this block, while the
left-hand edge of the block is free. You will now pick
up and knit sts along this selvedge. With RS still facing,
pick up and knit 8 sts along the block, from top to
bottom. Turn so WS is facing. Work Rows 1-16 as for first
block worked in Tier 2. Rep from ** for third block—24
sts on right needle; all sts have been worked; 3 leftslanting
blocks.
BODY OF SCARF:
Turn so WS is facing. Rep Tier 1, picking up sts along
blocks instead of base triangles. Then Rep Tier 2. This
scarf alternates tiers of right-slanting blocks with side
triangles and tiers of left-slanting blocks with no side
triangles. As you work, you'll see that the side triangles
on every other tier are necessary to create flush edges
at either side of the scarf. If you did not work side
triangles, your scarf would have zigzag edges. Work
Tiers 1 and 2 until you reach 2" less than desired length
and have several yards of yarn left. Work Tier 1 once
more, to end with a tier with side triangles.
ENDING SCARF:
Top Triangles:
You must have ended with a Tier 1 to work the top
triangles. With RS still facing and 1 st on right needle,
pick up and knit 7 sts down the selvedge of the side
triangle just completed—8 sts on right needle. Turn so
WS is facing.
Row 1: (WS) P8, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Ssk, k5, ssk, turn.
Row 3: (WS) P7, turn.
Row 4: (RS) Ssk, k4, ssk, turn.
Row 5: P6, turn.
Row 6: Ssk, k3, ssk, turn.
Row 7: P5, turn.
Row 8: Ssk, k2, ssk, turn.
Row 9: P4, turn.
Row 10: Ssk, k1, ssk, turn.
Row 11: P3, turn.
Row 12: Ssk, ssk, turn.
Row 13: P2, turn.
Row 14: K1, ssk, turn.
Row 15: P2, turn.
Row 16: Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back, ssk, pass slipped
st over st rem from ssk, do not turn—first top triangle
completed; 1 st rem on right needle; 17 sts
total rem.
***With RS still facing and 1 st on right needle, pick up
and knit 7 sts down the selvedge of the block below the
needle tips. Turn so WS is facing. Work Rows 1-16 as for
first top triangle. Rep from *** for third top triangle—1
st rem. Break yarn and fasten off last st.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block as desired and as appropriate
for yarn. The scarf shown was not blocked. Blocking
entrelac, especially pinning and ironing it, will flatten
out its three-dimensional surface. Some people like the
smooth, flat look of blocked entrelac; others like the
puffed and quilted look of non-blocked entrelac. Decide
which look you like best before you block your scarf.
With time and wear, your scarf will naturally flatten out
a bit. -
It is realy cool. If you have seen Melinda or Kat working on it you will remember it is little squares set on the diagnal and they are puffy. Melinda did a sweater in entrelac and let us display it at the library and Kat has been working on a blanket. Kat has not given me a pattern. The one listed below is just so you will get the idea. She will bring a pattern for us to the December meeting. She said you would need size 10 knitting needles and 2 colors of woorsted weight yarn. See you all the 2nd Thursday of December.
Design by Lisa Shroyer
The Basic Entrelac Scarf
FINISHED SIZE:
10" wide and 69" long.
YARN:
Noro Kochoran (50% wool, 30% angora, 20%
silk; 175 yd [160 m]/100 g): #53 orange/
green/turquoise, 3 skeins. Yarn distributed by
Knitting Fever.
NEEDLES:
Size 9 (5.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
NOTIONS:
Tapestry needle.
GAUGE:
15 sts and 19 rows = 4" in St st. Gauge is not
critical for this project.
SKILL LEVEL:
Intermediate.
If you're new to entrelac and need a basic pattern to get started, you're in luck! I just
started an easy scarf and thought it would make a great beginner entrelac project. I
made up the instructions based on Eunny Jang's Beyond the Basics article on entrelac,
so if you have that article, following the pattern will be a good exercise.
You'll see I haven't finished the scarf, but it's such a quick knit I should be able to
complete it before the weather changes here in the Northeast. Enjoy!
Lisa Shroyer
Entrelac Scarf
Notes
• This scarf is a great first entrelac project. You can
use any chunky-weight yarn, or even go down to a
worsted weight (for a narrower version).
• In this project, you will pick up stitches on both the
right and wrong sides. You may need to practice picking
up and purling stitches if you’re not used to this
method.
• When picking up stitches, use a half stitch or one full
stitch selvedge. This means pick up your stitches
from the bar in the middle of the first stitch along the
selvedge, or in the trough between the first and second
stitches along the selvedge. Keeping your pickup
locations consistent throughout the pick-up and
throughout the project will ensure a neat look.
BEGINNING SCARF:
Base Triangles:
Use the knitted method (see Glossary)
to CO 24 sts. You want a loose CO for
the beginning of the base triangles.
Row 1: (RS) K2, turn work around, leaving
rem sts unworked.
Row 2: (WS) P2, turn work around.
Row 3: (RS) K3, turn work around.
Row 4: (WS) P3, turn work around.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 8: P5, turn.
Row 9: K6, turn.
Row 10: P6, turn.
Row 11: K7, turn.
Row 12: P7, turn.
Row 13: K8, do not turn—first base triangle
completed.
With RS still facing and 8 sts on right
needle, rep Row 1 across next 2 sts on
left needle. Work Rows 2-13—second
base triangle completed. With RS still
facing and 16 sts on right needle, work Row 1 across
next 2 sts on left needle. Work Rows 2-13 once
more—third base triangle completed; all 24 sts have
been worked.
Tier 1: (blocks with side triangles)
Turn work so WS is facing. You will start this tier with a
triangle, then work 2 full right-slanting blocks, then end
with another side triangle. When you work the p2tog’s
on WS rows, you will be joining the side triangle with
the sts of the base triangle below it.
Row 1: (WS) P2, turn.
Row 2: (RS) K1, M1 (see Glossary), k1, turn.
Row 3: (WS) P2, p2tog, turn.
Row 4: (RS) K2, M1, k1, turn.
Row 5: P3, p2tog, turn.
Row 6: K3, M1, k1, turn.
Row 7: P4, p2tog, turn.
Row 8: K4, M1, k1, turn.
Row 9: P5, p2tog, turn.
Row 10: K5, M1, k1, turn.
Row 11: P6, p2tog, turn.
Row 12: K6, M1, k1, turn.
Row 13: P7, p2tog, do not turn—first side triangle completed;
8 sts on right needle.
With WS still facing, look at the base triangle now
attached to the completed side triangle. The right-hand
side of the base triangle is attached to the side triangle,
while the left-hand side of the base triangle is free. You
will now pick up sts along this left-hand edge of the
base triangle. With WS still facing, starting at the tip
of the base triangle and working down to the CO edge,
evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the selvedge of the
base triangle (see Notes)—16 sts total on right needle
and 16 sts on left needle. In the block you’re about to
work, you will join the new picked-up sts with the sts
of the middle base triangle with p2tog’s, just as you
joined the side triangle to the first base triangle. Turn
work so RS is facing.
Odd Rows 1-15: (RS) K8, turn.
Even Rows 2-14: (WS) P7, p2tog, turn.
Row 16: (WS) P7, p2tog, do not turn—first block completed;
16 sts on right needle, 8 sts of last base triangle
on left needle.
With WS still facing, look at the middle base triangle.
The first block is joined to the right-hand edge of the
base triangle, while the left-hand edge of the base
triangle is free. With WS still facing, starting at the tip
of the base triangle and working down to the CO edge,
evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the selvedge of the
base triangle—24 sts total on right needle and 8 sts on
left needle. Turn work so RS is facing and work Rows
1-16 as for first block—second block completed; 24 sts
on right needle, no sts on left needle. It may look like
this tier is complete, but you still need to work a second
side triangle. With WS still facing, look at the last base
triangle on the left-hand side. The second block is
joined to its right-hand edge, while the left-hand edge
of the base triangle is free. With WS still facing, starting
at the tip of the base triangle and working down to
the CO edge, evenly pick up and purl 8 sts down the
selvedge of the base triangle—32 sts now on right
needle. Turn work so RS is facing.
Row 1: (RS) K8, turn.
Row 2: (WS) P6, p2tog, turn.
Row 3: (RS) K7, turn.
Row 4: (WS) P5, p2tog, turn.
Row 5: K6, turn.
Row 6: P4, p2tog, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 8: P3, p2tog, turn.
Row 9: K4, turn.
Row 10: P2, p2tog, turn.
Row 11: K3, turn.
Row 12: P1, p2tog, turn.
Row 13: K2, turn.
Row 14: P2tog, turn so RS is facing, slip 1 st from left
needle to right needle—second side triangle completed;
25 sts total on needles.
Tier 2: (all blocks, no side triangles)
Tier 1 created right-slanting blocks; Tier 2 will create
left-slanting blocks (when viewed from the RS). With
RS still facing, look at the side triangle just completed.
Its left-hand edge is free. You will now pick up and knit
sts along this selvedge. With RS still facing and 1 st on
right needle, starting at tip of side triangle and working
downwards, pick up and knit 7 sts along the selvedge of
the side triangle—8 sts total on right needle (including
1 st rem from side triangle). Turn so WS is facing.
Odd Rows 1-15: (WS) P8, turn.
Even Rows 2-14: (RS) K7, ssk (see Glossary), turn.
Row 16: (RS) K7, ssk, do not turn—first block completed;
8 sts on right needle, 16 sts on left needle.
**With RS still facing, look at the block below your
needle tips, worked on Tier 1. The block you just
completed is joined to the top of this block, while the
left-hand edge of the block is free. You will now pick
up and knit sts along this selvedge. With RS still facing,
pick up and knit 8 sts along the block, from top to
bottom. Turn so WS is facing. Work Rows 1-16 as for first
block worked in Tier 2. Rep from ** for third block—24
sts on right needle; all sts have been worked; 3 leftslanting
blocks.
BODY OF SCARF:
Turn so WS is facing. Rep Tier 1, picking up sts along
blocks instead of base triangles. Then Rep Tier 2. This
scarf alternates tiers of right-slanting blocks with side
triangles and tiers of left-slanting blocks with no side
triangles. As you work, you'll see that the side triangles
on every other tier are necessary to create flush edges
at either side of the scarf. If you did not work side
triangles, your scarf would have zigzag edges. Work
Tiers 1 and 2 until you reach 2" less than desired length
and have several yards of yarn left. Work Tier 1 once
more, to end with a tier with side triangles.
ENDING SCARF:
Top Triangles:
You must have ended with a Tier 1 to work the top
triangles. With RS still facing and 1 st on right needle,
pick up and knit 7 sts down the selvedge of the side
triangle just completed—8 sts on right needle. Turn so
WS is facing.
Row 1: (WS) P8, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Ssk, k5, ssk, turn.
Row 3: (WS) P7, turn.
Row 4: (RS) Ssk, k4, ssk, turn.
Row 5: P6, turn.
Row 6: Ssk, k3, ssk, turn.
Row 7: P5, turn.
Row 8: Ssk, k2, ssk, turn.
Row 9: P4, turn.
Row 10: Ssk, k1, ssk, turn.
Row 11: P3, turn.
Row 12: Ssk, ssk, turn.
Row 13: P2, turn.
Row 14: K1, ssk, turn.
Row 15: P2, turn.
Row 16: Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back, ssk, pass slipped
st over st rem from ssk, do not turn—first top triangle
completed; 1 st rem on right needle; 17 sts
total rem.
***With RS still facing and 1 st on right needle, pick up
and knit 7 sts down the selvedge of the block below the
needle tips. Turn so WS is facing. Work Rows 1-16 as for
first top triangle. Rep from *** for third top triangle—1
st rem. Break yarn and fasten off last st.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block as desired and as appropriate
for yarn. The scarf shown was not blocked. Blocking
entrelac, especially pinning and ironing it, will flatten
out its three-dimensional surface. Some people like the
smooth, flat look of blocked entrelac; others like the
puffed and quilted look of non-blocked entrelac. Decide
which look you like best before you block your scarf.
With time and wear, your scarf will naturally flatten out
a bit. -
An Idea for a Christmas Gift
Gull Wings Lace Bookmark Knitting Pattern
Designed by Barbara Breiter
This knitting pattern for a lace bookmark uses a very old pattern called Gull Wings. It is a very easy lace pattern so if you've never tried knitting lace, this would be a great pattern to try.
Metallic yarn adds sparkle and creates a classy look to this easy knitting project. One skein will make 4 to 5 bookmarks, depending upon the tassel.
Materials
Size 7 US (4.5 mm) needles or size needed to obtain gauge
1 skein Glitterspun by Lion Brand
60% acrylic/27% cupro/13% polyester
50 grams/1.75 ounces
115 yards/105 meters
Gauge
23 sts and 32 rows=4" in pat st (not vital)
Size
2¼" wide x 6¼" long
Instructions:
CO 11 sts
Knit 3 rows in seed st:
*k1, p1; rep from *, end k1
Rep this row.
Row 1 (WS): k1, p across to last st, k1
Row 2: k1, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, p1, k1
Row 3: Rep Row 1
Row 4: k1, p1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, p1, k1
Rep Rows 1-4 11 times.
Knit 3 rows in seed st.
BO in pat.
Weave in ends on WS. Make a tassel if desired and attach to top of bookmark.
Block and stiffen bookmark using a commercial product or liquid laundry starch.
I used a size 5 needle and left over sock yarn. They turned out very nice. I am going to put them in a Christmas card for my son's teachers and a few co workers. It does not take a lot of time and its a nice personal touch I think.
Enjoy,
Peggy
Designed by Barbara Breiter
This knitting pattern for a lace bookmark uses a very old pattern called Gull Wings. It is a very easy lace pattern so if you've never tried knitting lace, this would be a great pattern to try.
Metallic yarn adds sparkle and creates a classy look to this easy knitting project. One skein will make 4 to 5 bookmarks, depending upon the tassel.
Materials
Size 7 US (4.5 mm) needles or size needed to obtain gauge
1 skein Glitterspun by Lion Brand
60% acrylic/27% cupro/13% polyester
50 grams/1.75 ounces
115 yards/105 meters
Gauge
23 sts and 32 rows=4" in pat st (not vital)
Size
2¼" wide x 6¼" long
Instructions:
CO 11 sts
Knit 3 rows in seed st:
*k1, p1; rep from *, end k1
Rep this row.
Row 1 (WS): k1, p across to last st, k1
Row 2: k1, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, p1, k1
Row 3: Rep Row 1
Row 4: k1, p1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, p1, k1
Rep Rows 1-4 11 times.
Knit 3 rows in seed st.
BO in pat.
Weave in ends on WS. Make a tassel if desired and attach to top of bookmark.
Block and stiffen bookmark using a commercial product or liquid laundry starch.
I used a size 5 needle and left over sock yarn. They turned out very nice. I am going to put them in a Christmas card for my son's teachers and a few co workers. It does not take a lot of time and its a nice personal touch I think.
Enjoy,
Peggy
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Good News! and Bad News...
Ok the bad first.....Major Specks did not use all of our blankets last year. It seams the ladies who make the dolls had been producing 300 a year and had pushed to make 400. So part of the good news is tho we did not make our goal of 500 there where 100 left from last year! I think 400 is a good goal for us and very doable.
The other part of the good news is that because of your efferot 100 more children had a Christmas treat than the previous years!
!!!!You guys realy rock!!!
Major Specks was very pleased to get the blankets and will be holding a volenters dinner at the prison some time in the spring. This will be in the evening so hopfully more of us will be able to attend.
Knit on.
Peggy
The other part of the good news is that because of your efferot 100 more children had a Christmas treat than the previous years!
!!!!You guys realy rock!!!
Major Specks was very pleased to get the blankets and will be holding a volenters dinner at the prison some time in the spring. This will be in the evening so hopfully more of us will be able to attend.
Knit on.
Peggy
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Blanket Count Updated
Our current blanket count has been updated to include the blankets donated by Paula (40) and Julie (22). I have finished five in the last week and a half and am going to continue making as many as I can before the November meeting.
If you have have a bunch of completed blankets please bring them to the November meeting or contact me (Kat) at Books A Million in Bossier City on Saturday from 2pm to 4pm. You can also leave them with Nancy at her shop (Knitting Under The Influence of Nancy) located at 6505 Line Avenue, Suite 48, Shreveport, LA 71106.
If you have any questions, please email me at shreveportcws@gmail.com or Peggy at chicks-w-sticks@hotmail.com.
If you have have a bunch of completed blankets please bring them to the November meeting or contact me (Kat) at Books A Million in Bossier City on Saturday from 2pm to 4pm. You can also leave them with Nancy at her shop (Knitting Under The Influence of Nancy) located at 6505 Line Avenue, Suite 48, Shreveport, LA 71106.
If you have any questions, please email me at shreveportcws@gmail.com or Peggy at chicks-w-sticks@hotmail.com.
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